I finished replacing the rubber fuel lines with high pressure or fuel injection rated hoses. The vent tubes were replaced with standard fuel line hoses.
I picked up a new front to rear steel brake line from The Right Stuff Detailing. The line was bent to factory specs and complete with the proper fittings.
I ran into a few difficulties in replacing the line. The original line runs along the frame rail and was installed before the body was placed on the frame. This made clearance tight and access to the bolts holding the fasteners tricky. After reaching a point of frustration, a member in ClassicOldsmobiles.com suggested I hammer the socket onto the bolt then remove. That did the trick!
The next obstacle was snaking over 6 feet of steel brake line along the frame rail and over the rear axle. Fortunately, the brake line is somewhat flexible. You just want to be careful not to put any kinks in the line. It took a few tries, but it finally lined up so that I could tighten everything down.
Once everything was installed the final step was bleeding the brakes. I prefer the gravity method even though it takes longer. I started with the passenger side rear drum as it is the furthest from the master cylinder. With a section of line that size, there was a lot of air in the lines. Take your time and be patient. Just when you think you are done bleed them once more. The last thing you want is air pockets in the lines in an emergency brake situation.
While working under the car be sure to check around for any leaks or bolts that have worked themselves loose. The transmission and oil pans are likely culprits. I sprayed everything off and I will check again in a few weeks. I took the car out for a drive and not only do the brakes work, but the drum cleanup took care of an annoying rear brake squeak I was hearing.